Southern Italy and Sicily – 16 Days – Cosmos Tour – A Journal of the Tour – Part One
Rome to Capri
“……A ceiling so ornate with gold detail it was like encrusted velvet. I was absolutely besotted by the building and I have never been so enthralled to see such an historical masterpiece……”
1:10 pm 11th.September
I left Tullamarine, Melbourne at 9:35 pm Wednesday 10th. September flying Emirates in a large A380-800 Airbus plane, to Dubai. There was a four hour stopover in Dubai, then I departed 9:10 am Thursday 11th. September, Dubai time, for Rome.
The flight from Dubai to Rome was reasonably smooth and I am sitting next to a South African chap who is chatty. I had noticed that Dubai was covered in dust or smog. He confirmed it was dust and said that it was a regular occurrence as Dubai’s in the desert and they often have high winds there. It was very hard to see the Dubai CBD or coastline and buildings as the dust was impossible to penetrate regarding view, I did see the outline of the icon of Dubai though, its famous sail shaped high rise.
Heading across the Mediterranean now towards Roma. Very surreal. On my own but not at all lonely.
5:15 pm – Finally showered and relaxing in my hotel suite at the Parco Tirreno, Rome which is not in Central Rome. The hotel has spacious grounds and is not unlike hotels you might find in Australia. I unpacked to find I have left my hair brush at home, yes, I ALWAYS leave something behind. My typical self is on holiday.
I arrived at Da Vinci Rome Airport at 1:15 pm earlier this afternoon. The airport is well out of the city and surrounded by farmland and scattered settlements. It took forever to get through customs and all he did was stamp my passport. The officer next to him was holding up passports to look at pics and asking all sorts of questions of each person waiting to get through in the line next to the one I was in. Three plane loads of visitors ushered at trickle pace through an hour glass checkpoint, with only two customs officers in attendance. No bag checks on the way or we’d probably all still be at the airport. I had waited in line at least an hour and a half. No trouble spotting my bag with the green tag and black and yellow striped straps. I don’t believe they even opened my bag as nothing was rearranged, and certainly not the mix of other people’s things from indiscriminate sorting and tossing of things back into the nearest bag at hand as forewarned by my older sister. My hand luggage had been checked through at every port of call without incident as well.
The search for my name on a plaque then followed and I was shepherded in with three other ladies, all single and traveling together. As it turns out they are all doing the same first, and/or first and second legs of my trip. The driver dropped another couple off at another hotel then dropped Jenny, Jeanette, Liz and myself at the hotel where the rest of the Cosmos group is to meet tomorrow evening. The ladies are all of a similar age to me and all with the same idea, arrive and chill an extra day before our Southern Italy and Sicily Tour is due to begin. I was hoping to hook up with free Wifi at the hotels we stay at and brought an iPad for all my communications. I left my iPhone at home but there’s no free Wifi here so rather than pay a small fee now, I’ll leave it til tomorrow as my adult children at home will be in bed right now. It looks like it’s not just couples on this tour so I’m looking forward to spending some good times with everyone.
Kill for a water right now. No tea and coffee in the room, kettle, fridge running less than cold and no electrical appliances like hair dryers so I wonder, “just exactly what I’m in for and how much the extras are going to tally?”
7:04 am 12th. September
Showered and changed and collapsed onto the bed; it is like balmy Brisbane here, then slept comatose-like for two hours. Woke up half with it at 8:00 pm thinking I’d better go down and find water and some dinner or everything would be closed later. The girls had been drinking wine and eating pasta and were all ready to collapse into their beds having not had a rest after arrival, so they only stayed for a further fifteen minutes whilst we made plans to meet in the morning. I bought four bottles of “aqua”. Water’s cheap here as compared to Australia, then ordered “Fettuccini alla Bolognese” which was delicious. Light for eating then crashing in bed. Altogether it cost 16€. I dined in the garden and must take the camera tomorrow evening as it was a lovely setting. Hardly anyone was there at the restaurant, as I was told that the evening starts much later in Italy as many have a siesta during the day and things tend to shut down. All in all I think it’s going to be reasonably easy to eat well and not blow the budget for the meals that aren’t included this trip. I retired to bed around 9:30 pm.
Woke this morning after a restless sleep, as the bed is hard, (I’m a soft bed person). I had opened the sliding glass door on my balcony last night to enjoy a balmy breeze through the floor length curtains and left it open all night. Thinking like an Australian again as it just didn’t occur to me it might be dangerous to leave it open even though I was on the fifth floor. Looking forward to spending a day with some friendly people who insisted I come along and not stay at the hotel and waste my first full day in Roma! I’m not sure what the day will bring but it will be something not on the list of tour inclusions as between the three tours I’m doing, I will spend over a week here, and I do hope to get to see many things on the tour itself. About to get in the shower and then dress for a rendezvous with three like minded women at 9:00 am in the garden restaurant.
5:05 pm – Wow such a fun-filled busy day out with the three Australian girls. Starting with breakfast in the breakfast room at the Hotel it was a true European Continental style breakfast, cereals, Danish pastries and croissants, bread rolls and cheese, ham, coffee, tea and of course cafe latte, cappuccino, macchiato, espresso…….
It was decided an adventure was in order with our first full day in Rome so we agreed to head into Rome City on the Metro. The public train system is a popular haunting ground for the gypsies that make their living surviving by stealing, pickpocketing, and generally making gains by nefarious means so I was quite ambivalent about the exercise being such a green traveler. But the first exercise before even leaving the hotel was to actually wear my money belt with valuables underneath my trousers rather than bum bag style over the top but hidden under a long shirt as it was not only less obvious, but nearly impossible to pilfer when placed there. The other lessons were to watch each others backs, travel as a group and lastly, be vigilant, especially when stopping to take photos! (Be conscious of who is in close proximity.)
We walked about a kilometre and a half to the Metro entrance, to the stairwell leading down to the subway itself after purchasing tickets at a tobacconist, the Italian equivalent of a bazaar. Tobacconists in Italy sell everything from stamps, postcards, phone cards, phones, Wifi, drinks, snacks, Metro tickets to wine etc. not just tobacco. The Metro is an efficient, fast and very popular method of travel in a city like Rome where streets are narrow and big cars limited. Parking is as particularly persistent problem for those who own a motor vehicle, and the cars most popular in Rome are the two seat tiny smart cars and the small luxury vehicle either Mercedes, Alfa Romeos or Saab. More common however are scooters and motorbikes. I had my camera in a small plain backpack out of sight, no valuables in view, (I’d left all expensive jewellery back home) and my back pack with its additional front strap was secured around me.
The Metro was easy to board and the center of Rome just seven stops on from our station entry. We exited the station quickly and you could immediately tell the tourists from the locals, their dress and the fact that the locals chose to walk as they drove, on the right hand side of the pavement or walkways. From the Metro exit we wandered to the first of dozens of cobbled streets, all filled with gorgeous Italian boutiques and designer shops, open air cafes and restaurants. Street vendors dotted among the streets were selling everything from fruit and vegetables, to clothing, tourist items, souvenirs, papers and magazines. The photo opportunities were endless. Beautifully coiffed women and men, well heeled Italians and sloppily dressed foreign tourists as well as gypsies. The trick for the day was to spot the gypsies before they spotted you but that’s probably not what was happening at all, no doubt they would have had us on their radar long before we had them under scrutiny. However, restrict eye contact and tell them no before they got too close if they approached was the way to successfully avoid most encounters. They are very skillful pickpockets and if you attract their interest you may have a hard time shaking them off. Liz told a story of herself in Romania where they a group of six people followed her for many blocks, she eventually had to go to her hotel to shake them off. So I was in good hands. The girls were vigilant looking out for each other as we wandered and I enjoyed the day despite being wary and a little nervous.
Scarves were the order of the day for all of us as our first souvenir purchases. Such big spenders. Never mind that they looked Indian and probably came from Bangladesh, the fact was they were bought in a well-heeled cobbled street in Central Rome from a street vendor. The window shopping was fabulous. Displays perfectly placed in each window, just the right aesthetic, the right symmetry, the right combination of color, texture and beauty. Gorgeous experience. Very, very enjoyable and I am no shopper.
Coffee at a genuine Italian outdoor cafe, seated away from the thoroughfare to safe keep our valuables; the cafe lattes were exquisite. The advantage of having a coffee was two-fold I learned, great coffee and no need to use public toilets as the restaurant had private facilities we were entitled to use for no additional charge. Up and down the streets, it was easy to wind our way around without covering the same ground and we successfully saw much of the inner city shopping district. I bought my first Italian gelato from a fabulous shop that had amazing displays of ice cream cones and fresh home made gelato. Fresh summer peach and berry and of course, can we take a photo? Why yes! And the shop owner races around the shop counter, gives you a cuddle and hops in the photo with you. Rome, what an amazing place!
We wandered around until lunchtime and soon found we were not far far from the Spanish Steps. We trekked back to the shops though first as this time the girls were on the hunt for hats. We then headed back towards the Spanish Steps. We climbed the Spanish Steps and here the gypsies were quite plentiful. Offering to take your camera and put it up on a pole so you could manage a selfie. I don’t think so. Not my precious baby. Or buy flowers, or buy this or that. Beggars too. I saw one man begging with a young three or four year old sitting on his shoulders smiling as he walked along begging for money. He was well dressed, she was well dressed. No doubt he was hoping his child would attract more generosity.
At the Spanish Steps we all headed upwards. They were not too steep so it was a reasonably easy climb and at the top we found artists and market stalls. On the way back down, by chance, I came across the two people I had sat next to on the plane from Dubai to Rome. I stopped to say hi and then continued with the girls looking for a street restaurant where Jenny could have a beer and all of us a bite to eat for lunch. Again the waiter wouldn’t just pose for a photo, rather a cuddle and in the photo with us! I had a light lunch of grilled vegetables for 10€.
After lunch we shop further but decided it was best to get back to the Metro well before peak hour to avoid the crowds as the pickpockets work best when there is only standing room on the Metro. We retraced our steps without incident. Sitting on the Metro with my back to the seat we helped avoid contact with many others on the way in to Rome but we couldn’t avoid standing on the trip back. So I stood with my back to one of the girls and so on in a circle around a pole in the middle. As soon as travelers started disembarking however, we managed to get seats after a few kilometers and achieve a little more security. Seven stops and we were back where we started.
The trek to the hotel was stop start as we wandered and I bought a hairbrush at a little supermarket for 1,50€ and a one litre water bottle for ,80 cents. Cheaper compared to the restaurants in central Rome, water at 2,50€ for 500 ml. Wine also in the centre is a lot dearer at 20-25€, nearby the hotel at a local supermarket I bought a bottle of Sangiovese for 6,90€. Jenny’s Italian beer was 7€ in the centre but she spotted it on sale for 1,25€ on the walk back.
Back at the room by 4:00 pm. The day had been beautiful weather wise, 32 degrees Celsius at its peak, but mostly around 28 with overcast conditions and a nice balmy breeze. Walking the streets had been a delight with such beautiful weather, and fresh air, something I’ve been really missing coming out of winter in Australia. I met Terry, my room mate, (I didn’t pay single supplement which meant I was to room share) before I got dressed. Bashing on the door the porter didn’t look particularly impressed when I answered wet and wearing only a towel.
We went to a meeting tonight at 6:00 pm and met some of the other people on our tour. They are mostly American or Australian. I’ve yet to speak to them except for one single man Ken who quickly sought out our group as the others are all married. I think there’s 43 people on the tour. Gianpaolo is our tour guide and he gave a run down for an hour and a half on “what is what” so the Tour has begun. Dinner was at the garden restaurant again tonight, this time I had steak and roast potatoes. Flavorsome but simple food. No salad or green vegetables so it’ll be pasta or something else tomorrow. Off to my room to write this journal and pass some time so I can send something to the kids. No free Wifi here except to buy so I bought 3 hours today for 5€ and will use some of it shortly sending something through. I probably won’t send anything for a few more days as the hotels don’t seem to encourage freebies.
4:30 pm 13th. September
An early start, awake at 5:40 am for a 7:30 am departure. Breakfast with the group by 6:45 am and I sat down to a light breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, ham, cheese and coffee. Terry and I went down to the bus at 7:29 am. Frowns all round and a very pointed reminder from tour guide Gianpaolo that we must be on the bus and ready for departure at the appointed time EVERY day. Departure was 7:20 am that morning, not 7:30 am as we had thought. Oops! :((
Today it was straight to the Vatican City where half the group choose the optional tour to tour the Vatican City museum followed by St. Peters Square, and St. Peter’s Basilica for 58€. Turns out Terry, part of the group who chose not to go on the Vatican City museum tour was taken straight to St. Peter’s Square and there she saw St. Peter’s Basilica anyway.
The Vatican City museum was absolutely amazing with priceless works of art and history everywhere. Stunning sculptures and huge tapestries adorned several walkways. Art objects from around the world, gifts to the pope on display and in such numbers and variety they are featured exhibitions in themselves. I hadn’t known that the pope has his own stamp collection, with “himself” on the stamps. Maps, intricate and correct to scale, huge maps some eight feet high and twelve feet wide, hand painted hundreds of years ago, all on glorious display. Painted ceilings which were not sculpted appeared three dimensional and ceilings that were sculpted and were three dimensional adorned the halls. Everywhere there were stunning paintings, occasionally we saw frescoes on walls and ceilings. And I saw, the jewel of all, Michelangelo’s amazing Sistine chapel painted during the Renaissance some five hundred plus years ago. No pictures or speaking in the chapel during our visit and we were allowed twenty minutes in there to absorb the grandeur of his masterpiece. I found myself unable to absorb the work except as a whole however and left without realizing I hadn’t focused on the individual stories depicted like the stunning and very famous “Creation of Adam”. The mass of people had been enormously distracting, and the difficulty on focusing on such heights for a lengthy period was a major challenge. It had been however, inspirational!
From the Sistine chapel we walked a short distance to St. Peter’s Basilica. Housed there is one of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures “La Pieta” or ” Pity”; the Madonna holding the body of her son Jesus. It is perhaps, my most favorite sculpture. Again, with photography permitted, the opportunities for capturing images were everywhere. St Peter’s was stunning, a teenage art history lesson come to life; I was standing in front of and in the midst of, genius. I was so excited I kept saying to Jenny today, I’m here, I’m really here, I can’t believe I’m really here! The artwork and sculptures were beautiful. Detailed, elaborate, masterful. I loved high school art, studying the masters. And the Renaissance period in history was one of my favorites.
St. Peter’s Basilica, principally designed by Michelangelo and completed in 1626 AD, is the largest church in the world. Shoulders need to be covered in the church as a sign of respect and vendors selling scarves were outside taking advantage of opportunity if the visiting tourist’s dress code was less than appropriate. The church is huge and here and there are glass coffins housing former popes’ preserved bodies. One I saw, I was told by our guide, had died in the 1960’s and he looked grey, a surreal waxy figure you’d expect to see in a place like a wax model museum. He was lying peacefully in repose, but utterly lifeless.
I do believe the Italians place significance in the description, more is more, is more, is more. All surfaces of the basilica were either rich marble or stone, sculpture, fresco, or frieze, ornate carvings or pattern, textured tapestry or mosaic. No square inch of this church is less than ornate or intricate in all detail or design. No such thing as less is more in Italy! I dedicated most of my time in St. Peter’s to simply enjoying the tour, the majesty of the basilica and capturing images on the Nikon. (I bought a new Nikon D610 camera body and Nikkor 24-120 lens for this adventure. The lens was a fabulous choice with its wide angle of 24 degrees and up to 120 degrees of zoom. Its focus options are brilliant!)
From St. Peter’s Basilica we exited into St. Peter’s Square. Having obviously watched too many movies, namely the Da Vinci Code sequel Angels and Demons, I looked around half expecting to see Ewan Mc Gregor flying a helicopter above the masses milling in St. Peter’s Square spiraling out of control, and Tom Hanks off to the side.
St. Peter’s Square is a huge expanse but was only dotted with people today. The famous sculptures atop the papal buildings rimmed the square as expected but it was only after exiting the Basilica however that I got a really good view of the entry to this magnificent church. (We had arrived via the Sistine chapel, which is a short walk along the side of the church to the front, and you sort of miss the grandeur of the entry as you simply slip around the corner and have passed through the columns at the front before you know it.)
It was another gorgeous day in Rome today. Not too hot, around 30 degrees Celsius top temperature, sunny with a cooler breeze in the open. Everywhere in St. Peter’s square gypsies and outdoor vendors were plying their trades, begging, selling postcards or cheap items. Jenny, Jeanette, Liz, Terry and I slipped into a coffee shop in a side street and bought water and/or coffee, and sat along a side bench to enjoy a half hour respite from the crowds. Here we were told up to 35,000 people visit St. Peter’s Basilica every day. We had felt quite safe during the tour in the Vatican City museum and St. Peter’s Basilica from gypsies and pick pockets, but not so in St. Peter’s Square, so extra vigilance was needed to traverse to where our meeting point was prior to the end of the Vatican tour.
We headed to the Colosseum after leaving St. Peter’s Square and again, the excitement of going to see a famous icon was buzzing through me. Gladiator this time with Russell Crow, gee such a movie addict, and it was hard to imagine how the movie makers manage to make the historical icons appear so complete and new. These ruins are not at all complete or unblemished and two major earthquakes, one some six hundred years and the other, some three hundred years ago, have added to the dilapidation of the beautiful structures. The tour guide that walked us through the building’s corridors was fantastic, lots of information and explanation, how, why and when. The Colosseum 70 AD was a marvel and I climbed up several flights of stairs to get a better view. I’m looking forward to including photos of this fabulous structure a new book.
Half the group is heading out for a night tour with dinner later and are meeting at 5:00 pm. I’m not going as they don’t stop for photos and two tours at 58€, I think, is a lot in one day when I have another seven weeks to travel. I’m weary and a little bit jet lagged, and we’ve covered about six to eight kilometers, including some major steps each day, the last two days. I’m keeping up well though, but I keep thinking how it would be impossible it would be for my elderly parents as you need to manage steps and a considerable amount of walking if you wish to make the most of your travel experience on these types of tours.
I came back to the hotel early with Terry, went down for a coffee and I ordered a pizza. Will skip dinner later tonight as the pizza was enough. Tomorrow we do an optional tour and visit the catacombs before our last night in Rome until our return in a fortnight.
1:00 pm 14th. September
This morning was an 8:30 am start after a 5:45 am rise. I went to bed very early yesterday around 5:00 pm but couldn’t really sleep until about 8:00 pm. The rest was great though, tired body from walking and stairs, and still, jet lag.
Woke refreshed and ready for a visit to the Catacombs and San Paolo Basilica.
The catacombs were fascinating particularly the underground church built 4AD, it was over 2000 years old but no photographs allowed so I was particularly disappointed when I didn’t take a camera and found out we could take a photograph of the church. The catacombs are eleven miles of tunnels over four levels, and around 150,000 people had been buried there. There was little left in terms of relics and bodies however, pillaging and bounty hunters had cleared out most valuables, and there are only some 800 sealed untouched tombs left.
Better however, was San Paolo Basilica, St. Paul’s Basilica, one of the most amazing pieces of architecture I have even seen in my entire life. The artwork and detail of this building was stunning. I couldn’t even begin to describe the magnificence of this place, and was so glad I had my camera to capture the majesty. Being Sunday, church was in progress and it was very poignant being in Rome on a Sunday at St. Paul’s. I put a 2€ coin in the offering box and thought of mum and dad at home at Sebastian Close, dad so unwell, and rapidly fading.
St. Peter’s yesterday was a mish mash of styles, a little bit of everything, a kaleidoscope of art and themes. St. Paul’s dated the fourth century AD was stunningly simple yet equally as intricate in detail. Superb symmetry, lines and majestic elements. Soaring columns, marble in subtle tones and designs along walls, the roof and particularly the floor. The art work unsurpassed in the dome area. Portraits of the popes along the tops of the columns forming a symmetrical pattern in themselves. A ceiling so ornate with gold detail it was like encrusted velvet. I was absolutely besotted by the building and I have never been so enthralled to see such an historical masterpiece.
We all returned to the hotel for some relax time, and wine with lunch. Observing people walking around in the gardens, stylish Italian men in suits with the fashionable European shoulder bag, or dressed in casual attire with loosely tied cardigans, many in pastel colors, about their shoulders. Men wearing heavy jewellery and embracing each other with affection every time they meet. The men often kiss each other on both cheeks but often just grasp the women by both arms without kissing. Italy I’m observing, is such a different culture and theirs is a melodious accent and dialogue, so very musical to the ear every time you pass people chatting.
I bought a 5€ code for three hours of Wifi and sent emails to my girls and sister. My sons find reading a lengthy text messages tedious so I decided to call them another time.
Some of our group went out for tea tonight but it was siesta time and the restaurant we would have liked to visit was still closed so we found a take away that had pasta, souvlaki and salads. We bought gelato at a tiny shop on the walk back to the hotel. Early 7:15 am departure tomorrow with some of our bags heading to Capri ahead of us to be loaded on the ferry, whilst we visit Pompeii. Other luggage is to go on to Sorrento as the Capri ferry has a weight limit per person.
10:00 pm 15th. September
Such a busy and interesting day today. A 5:45 am wake up, shower, some bags to go to Capri and out the door by 6:15 am, other bags to Sorrento, and breakfast at 6:30 am. Yoghurt and fruit, sliced ham and soft cheese, coffee for breakfast. I buttered a bread roll and added some soft Navarti cheese for a makeshift “take with me” lunch. Delicious.
Departed on the bus for the Autostrada by 7:20 am. Headed southwest towards Naples through Rome’s outskirts and into the countryside. It was a fascinating drive and we passed small farms and small acreage crops like maize, apricots and other stone fruits, berries. It’s very green but the season is turning and autumn, or fall, as it may be called here, is on its way. The Rome cottonwoods’ leaves are crumpling and turning yellow but I didn’t see any cottonwoods after leaving Rome though, on the way to Naples.
We are traveling on the Autostrada and have passed by a couple of solar panel stations with masses of solar collectors. There’s no water in any of the rivers we cross, but lush green grass is everywhere so there are frequent rains. The buildings are quite different here than in Australia and I am seeing only the odd deserted stone building. More common by the roadsides are brick two and three story houses, all rendered, no bare brick. Unusual designs, not like houses at home.
We stopped at 8:45 am for coffee and morning tea at a large auto hotel/roadhouse. The coffee, as usual, was to die for. (I cannot get enough of the Italian caffe latte.) A custard croissant with it and we were on the road again by 9:15 am. There’s tollways intermittently along the Autostrada and the gaps between the gates and the bus are quite tight. I personally think the Italian drivers are quite mad. The roads, away from the Autostrada are often skinny and it seems to be a “first in barge your way through” system. There have been many incidents where I have been left open mouthed by the drivers I have witnessed. A tiny truck reversing in Rome between two parked cars with less than six inches either side whilst cars and buses drove flat out around the trucks nose. And our trip up Mt. Vesuvius today, tooting the horn as the bus headed into a blind corner and hard braking or reversing to allow another bus to pass, or us to pass, with centimeters to spare, all at speed. But topping the lot was Capri this evening. Another bus traveling past a woman with a child in a stroller with a foot to spare whilst driving flat out then passing another bus centimeters apart tearing up the mountain.
We reached Naples around 11:00 am and headed straight up the mountain. Mt. Vesuvius is considered dormant in volcano terms but at the crater’s edge you can view steam escaping below. The walk to the summit was a steep 500 meters and takes around 45 minutes, so we got very close without having to go further unless you wished. I chose not to walk to the summit as it requires good fitness and the guide said Pompeii was also to be quite demanding and to not ruin that experience by overdoing it at Mt. Vesuvius. Around half the group made the climb and Jenny, who is quite fit, said she had to turn around fifty meters from the summit as they only had an hour at Vesuvius and she was running out of time to get back.
I took photos of Naples from the parking area at Vesuvius and the view was wonderful from the height 1250 meters. Such a beautiful city from that distance. Naples has some three million people and sits at the base of Mt. Vesuvius. It’s like they turn a blind eye to the mountain, or live in perpetual hope that it won’t blow again in their lifetimes. I personally don’t understand their psyche.
There are only a few sky scrapers in the centre of Naples but most of the buildings are three to six stories high and the Napoli people live mostly in apartments in large apartment blocks.
From Vesuvius we drove to Pompeii and there we went to a market and nice shopping area right next to the entry of the famous city. Handbags and designer pieces on sale in the shopping area were stunning, and other goods including Murano glass jewellery was there as well. We had an hour at the markets, with some of the group going to a Napoli lunch at 13€ all you can eat with the Napoli pizza on the top of the menu. I ate my bread rolls then had some ice cream. Italian ice cream is delicious.
Pompeii was like a rabbit warren and I kept falling behind as I was taking photos and often waiting for the masses of people to move out of my shots before continuing. Several thousand people were on the 120 acre site today as a number of cruise ships were in Naples. I lost the group for the second time about half an hour into the tour and after that could not find them again. Our guide had a very heavy accent and I found it very hard to understand him, so I told myself it didn’t matter and decided to venture through the ruins and remnants of the ancient town on my own. I could hear our guide in the ear piece in my ear for a time longer but when he faded away to nothing I figured the group was no place close.
Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79AD and some 20,000 people actually escaped the demise of Pompeii. However 2,000 died, mostly slaves, and the town was covered in eighty feet of ash. Mr. Vesuvius is known as an explosive volcano. When it erupts it explodes with poisonous gases and ash and Pompeii, we were told, was covered in ash simply because the wind was blowing that direction that day.
It was a beautiful warm day, almost too warm, and what breeze there was, was very, very welcome. As the temperature climbed I was quite hot by the time I had covered a couple of kilometers and I gave up the hunt for the group around 3:30 pm, an hour and a half after I lost them. The ruins are amazing however and although I was on my own, I enjoyed wandering and the opportunity for a few photos taking my time. I thought the central plaza the eeriest area in Pompeii as it opens up to the magnificent vista of Vesuvius in the background to its northern end, and the volcano seems amazingly close the city. I started heading back towards the meeting place at the market where I knew I would catch up with the group again but I had to make it back by four so I decided to head back without retracing my footsteps. A risky venture if I got it wrong but as it turned out I made it back early. The group was back later than four though, so when everybody eventually arrived, it meant we would miss the 4:30 pm ferry to Capri.
We headed to the Port of Naples then boarded the hydrofoil ferry without the bus leaving Antwonello our driver behind. The ferry we caught was the last one for the day and left at 5.30 pm. An hour later we arrived at Capri. Two smaller buses with our group then headed up the mountain to our hotel.
Capri is gorgeous. It is a playground for the jet set and I can see why. The buildings are quaint, the views breathtaking, the sea idyllic. And the views on the trip up the mountain were beautiful as I snapped some hasty photos out the window whilst the driver twisted the bus around tight corners and through busy traffic all the way. Laugh. Taxis are convertibles in Capri and I got some great pics of those as well with their well dressed occupants heading out to dinner.
Dinner was included tonight and we didn’t have time to shower as we’d lost an hour so we basically arrived for drinks at the bar only minutes after our arrival at the hotel. Dinner was included tonight and entree was pasta in tomato sauce with basil, mains fish with potatoes beans and tomato, and dessert was coffee mousse; after a busy active day, it was delicious.
I retired early to shower and write my journal. I estimate I walked about eight to ten kilometers today. It’s an early start tomorrow, 8:20 am.
10:00 pm 16th. September
Early morning start today with breakfast at 7:30 am and the day walking tour departing at 8:20 am. Breakfast this morning was again, a typical European buffet with cereals, Danishes of all kinds, heart shaped donuts with custard inside, escargot shaped pastries with sultanas, sweet tarts, Apple Danishes, croissants and fresh fruit, but with the new addition of scrambled eggs, bacon, ham and two types of sliced cheese, fresh bread rolls, juice, tea and gorgeous Italian Cafe Latte. The San Michel Hotel in Ana Capri is an interesting conglomeration of European/Italian styles, with high ceilings and rendered walls, marble, chandeliers and gilt mirrors, elaborate wooden furniture and glass ornaments, beautiful fixtures and artwork.
The optional tour group was doing a walking tour around Capri today which is not that unusual as 90% of the traffic in this town is foot traffic. Capri has around 4,000 residents and one of the most famous residents was Axel Munthe, a young doctor who developed a reputation as well as a deep love for the island. Munthe was instrumental in the development of modern mental health and was very famous among European royalty for his talents. His villa on Capri, one of the oldest residences, is now a museum/residence and open to the public, and it was our first port of call on the walking trek. White washed enormously thick walls with curved arched roofs in each room, interesting relics including a five hundred year old four poster bed, and outstanding gardens, statues and columns flanked walkways and courtyards. The location of Axel Munthe’s house is high on the island so the views of the harbour in Capri are spectacular and the photography opportunities with the smoky haze of early morning and easterly aspect of the sun was quite startling against the blue of the Mediterranean. Munthe has a sphinx sculpture from Egypt and it is mounted at the highest point of his villa’s easterly wall. The villa is set over several levels and stone steps and stairwells divide the levels in hokey pokey fashion. A lover of music there was also a music room aside from the main dwelling, and there are marble walkways with statues of the Greek gods in marble and bronze dotted along their length.
We left Munthe’s villa and head towards Ana Capri or the upper part of the town where there are many villas and boutique shops. The displays in the shops there were absolutely beautiful. A sandal shop with crystals mounted on the toe or bridge of the sandal’s straps appeared in every color, size and shape; dozens and dozens of sandals, the gems all artistically placed, balanced and pleasurable to the eye. Jewellery, dozens of designer clothes and handbags including Armani, Valentino and Hermes. Murano glass and jewellery, glasses, trinkets, watches, and tableware. Home wares, linen shops and kitchenware featuring Classic Italian fired pottery. Perfumers, hats, shoes, clothes, scarves, menswear. Cardigans casually tied around the necks of designer shirts and throw scarves draped on jackets adorned window models, placed among men’s handbags and shoulder bags and the latest trends in men’s accessories. I took many photos and enjoyed every moment spent in such a magical place.
We found the chairlift up the mountain in Ana Capri and it took 13 minutes to go to the top where you could view Capri from Mt. Solaro. The air was fragrant and cool in the shade of the trees as the single chair lift took each of us up, and it was eerily quiet, peaceful and most therapeutic to the soul. The landscape diminished in size below as I gained altitude, and the seascape and views were breathtaking. Italian villas in white and beige terracotta were everywhere, lush green vegetation and gardens, orchard trees, cobbled streets and steep steps joining terrace after terrace as pedestrians walking below gained elevation on foot.
Monte Solaro afforded stunning views of the Mediterranean and I took photos from dizzying heights in all directions. There were luxury yachts, some at anchor whilst others were leaving wide white wakes as they sped along either to or from their exotic locale.
There was an Italian coffee shop/bar at the top of the mountain and many of the group enjoyed cafe latte or wine whilst enjoying the view. The trek down was equally as enjoyable with unobstructed views for miles out to sea.
Once back in Ana Capri we continued our tour on foot though some back streets and popular walkways to the bus depot where we caught a local small bus to travel down to Capri major. The driver seemed like a lunatic, barely missing oncoming traffic on each corner as he drove into the lane of the oncoming traffic to actually negotiate the hairpin corners. I was sitting in the front seat and was surprised at the daring of these outrageous Southern Italian drivers. (Apparently only locals on Capri are allowed to own cars.)
In Capri we were taken on another tour but I again became separated when I joined up with Terry and the Americans that didn’t go on the morning’s walking tour but had chosen to spend the morning shopping in the beautiful seaside town. They were buying bits and pieces but the hustle and bustle of tiny Capri was about to be shattered by the arrival of a cruise liner with several thousand passengers on board and soon the streets were quite busy with tourists from the world over. Chanel, Gucci, Armani, Louis Vuitton, LongChamp, Hogan, Cochinelle, Prada, Furla, the fashion labels were all there among street side cafes and restaurants. Art and perfume. Bars. Gelato stands here and there and shell and coral boutiques. I quite expected to see a movie star at any moment. There were however, many well dressed Italians and beautiful women and men striking a fashionable pose among many of the more casual tourists.
The buses in Capri all have the same vinyl sign on them at the moment advertising the Capri Watch with its rainbow of Swarovski crystals embedded in the large round face, and I had seen a display of the beautiful watches in our hotel. My eldest son had given me money for my birthday and Christmas gifts last week so I decided to buy something really special and set about looking for the Capri Watch. We stopped for lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants and the Americans in our group ordered Piña Coladas, a Bloody Mary and Lemoncello, Bruschetta and Italian sandwiches whilst I simply enjoyed taking snaps of individuals in the crowd as it weaved it’s way along the street.
Terry and I headed up to Ana Capri after lunch, the Americans doing their own thing after that and we enjoyed the shopping back in the elevated centre where most of the cruise liner visitors were not. I saw a fabulous patent red leather designer bag with white straps and bought it after visiting the shop three times to look at it. I then bought some more bags, stunning Italian leather, beautiful. And I also bought some beautiful Murano glass jewellery.
Coffee at the square, gelato, again, and then back to the hotel for lunch. We then went back to Ana Capri to look further for the watch. I found it and bought it and before returning to the hotel found some more bits and pieces for the special people in my life.
Dinner was included this evening and entree was pasta, mains was pork, potatoes and vegetables in an Italian tomato sauce, and dessert Italian ice cream; berry and vanilla.
Altogether a fun filled day in a beautiful place. I could live here.
To view the second part of this tour go to Southern Italy and Sicily – A Journal of the Tour – Part Two
Capri to Palermo via Messsina then Rome
#cosmos #cosmossouthernitalyandsicily #cosmostours